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1000 SP - Alternative Gear Lever?

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Omobono View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 11:42
Hi all,
 
the gearshift lever of my 1000 SP is showing signs of wear and tear; no immediate replacement necessary, but it is having a "play" that will obviously not improve with the time.
 
Scouring this always very informative forum I have seen that the relevant replacement part is the spare part 17250960.
 
No joy on Gutsibits or Reboot. I have written to Agostini in Mandello and they have answered that they do noy have the part with code 17250960. However, they told me they have the part 17250950, which is the gear lever of the 850 T3.
 
Therefore, I have two questions before I go back to them (I trust you more):
 
1. Would the part for the 850 T3 work well?
2. What other alternative part would you suggest?
 
If anyone can suggest other places besides Stein Dinse I am very grateful.
 
Thanks
 
O   
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Barry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 12:48
Gear lever is common between T3 and 1000SP, according to the parts lists. Foot rest brackets aren't, but since you know the gear lever is the same part (GU17250950), no worries on that front. Except for the fact that if you can find one new stock, it'll cost you a fair bit.

Where's the play, though? It would be worth you whipping the assembly off and establishing that - the lever assembly is bushed (GU17252050) - that's a cheap part (available from Gutsibits, for sure), and may in itself be a cheap fix. Or is the nut and bolt assembly manky? You might want to replace them, if they are - and again, that might be a simple and relatively improvement. There's a 'sprung' washer, I think too - common to a few of the Tonti gear/brake lever assemblies, often missing, and which - again - if replaced, might take the play out of the movement.

Cheaper yet, a simple clean-up and greasing (where appropriate) of the various parts would be a) worth doing, and b) help you to know your way around your own machine.

Last but not least, there's the linkage, which has numerous potential points of wear, and represents yet another relatively cheap job that might result in a marked improvement in any gear-change 'slop'.

There's a list, somewhere in here, of the various Guzzi parts suppliers that we all, between us, use and/or recommend. Perhaps someone knows the link off by heart...
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jpc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 13:05
Little to add to Barry's top briefing on the gearchange, just that you can replace the two linkage "nut-and-bolt" connections with rose joints*, and that the last of the slack is due to play between the selector pawl and the selector drum pegs, which you can't cure. All the more reason to fix the rest.

* and see to it that at rest, the connecting linkages are at 90° to each other.


Edited by jpc - 13 Mar 2018 at 13:19
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyclobutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 15:00
Linkage may not be 'Last but not least'. 

I've not seen it on the big twins, but at least half of the slop in my very loose V50 shift is actually where the shift shaft comes out the rear g/box casing. That's going to need an engineered solution next time I pass that way.   
Butch
V50 II - 'The Black Pearl'
T3 - 'Blue'
Eldo Loop - 'Jug'
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jpc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 15:27
Yes, half is about the size of it on a sloppy selector, but the pre-selector and drum are a complex collection of cemented parts on big and small blocks alike. Don't get your hopes up !
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 18:26
Botb pedals pivot on a nylon bush by default, these notoriously didn't last very long, a friend with a T3 years ago replaced his with brass or bronze bushes. Also the gearchange linkage is complex, having one ball joint and one clevis joint, both are vulnerable to wear. So three chances of cumulative sloppiness.

There should also be a "wavy" spring washer on the pin that the pedal(s) pivot on, the pin, which threads into the frame and has a locknut, can be altered (screwed in or out) to compress this washer just right to take some of the the slack out. Mustn't be too tight to make the pivot too stiff to move freely however. I can remember buying new linkages (which include new joints), and new wavy washers, greasing all the pivots and reassembling to get minimum sloppiness. Didn't quite go as far as bronze bushes tho but was OK for me.

HTH





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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 18:27
PS: I mean of course nothing wrong with the actual pedal, probably just needs a new bush. And the other bits.


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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 19:14
Certainly look carefully at it first rather than just throw money at it.
 
Changing the linkage ball joints for rose joints will probably make as much improvement as any new part would, and then replace the bush in the pedal, that will probably sort the slop out completely.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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