So here are the results of my investigations so far:

New battery left tostand for 6 hours after filling, then charged overnight on an oxfordoximiser 3x charger

voltage testing

battery disconnected 12.95

ignition off 12.94

ignition on 12.58

startup drops to 10.4then back to 13.1 at idle

at 3000rpm 13.4

so the battery seemsgood and the charging system seems to be working.

measuring ampageconnecting the meter in series between the battery negative terminaland the battery negative connector, taking all but the main 30ampfuse out then adding each fuse in sequence.

30 amp fuse only 7.7m/amps

initially this readingspiked and fluctuated when I first started to test but settled after30 seconds or so

then adding in theother fuses one by one

5 amp 10 m/amps

5 amp 50.2 m/amps

15 amp 50.2 m/amps

15 amp 50.2 m/amps

15 amp 50.2 m/amps

then the ABS fuse

20 amp 50.2 m/amps

so the biggest jump wasthe 5 amp that feeds the instrument panel, turn indicators andbluedash. No idea what bluedash is.... main beam indicator?

Isa 50 m/amp drain enough to kill a new fully charged battery stonedead in two weeks? I'll measure the voltage on a daily basis to seehow much it's dropping, and pull the battery out and re charge it ifit goes below say 11 volts. If it continues to drop then for a stopgap i'll pull the main fuse when it sits overnight until I can gofurther with investigating, but baring in mind i'm a total mechanicalnewbie that may take longer than normal and require checking backwith you boys and girls.

Onwards and upwards!

A.

predictive text. Bit sorry to see it go this morning. It was a chore to manoeuvre it out of the garage.

I don't think I can get to Northampton for another 3 weeks. Why don't places open on a Sunday these days?

http://www.twiggersmotorcycles.co.uk/ ]]>

Hi Alan, I feel a bit guilty now... I woke with a thick head this morning so didn't go... and that's after David (UKGSer) and I agreed it's hard to get Guzzi riders out! Sorry for that, if you went I hope you enjoyed it and I'll definitely try harder next time! (it's a regular meet).

PS. It's the Notts & Derby club meet at The Inn on the Green at Coddington on Monday, I'll definitely be there as I'm going straight from work - honest! (they do a good curry :-D)

Not sure if you can make that, but look forward to meeting up sometime soon?... Pete!]]]>

Didn't Mick Berrill used to be the main Norton dealer in Northampton back in the 1970s?]]>

Freudian mistake?

]]>

I meant "twins".]]>

I've ridden a new v7. I liked it. After several BMW ruins and an f650 I like a bike with character. I may go and look at that one.

I've just sold my BMW this morning and now have an empty garage.

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Thanks for this excellent find.

(Wouldn't believe how difficult it was adding that thumbs up smiley on! Using mobile on E network)

Edited by Mike H -

Dave P. wrote:https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ScrewBolt_M.html Have a look here. Westfield Fasteners are very helpful and this link will lead you to a chart showing the strengths and corrosion resistance of stainless bolts etc. For example,a bolt of A4 80 grade has the same tensile strength as an 8.8 high tensile bolt. Materials key on the top R/H side of the page. |

The main difference between A2 and A4 is the corrosion resistance for marine use. In fact I saw a table published on this recently which showed the tensile strength of A4 was slightly lower than A2 because of the composition of the stainless.

You have to look further into the bolt description, A2-70, or A2-80, the last figure refers to the tensile strength.

A2-**70** has a tensile strength of 700N/mm2 2% yield strength = 450N/mm2

A4-**80** has a tensile strength of 800N/mm2 = 600N/mm2

An 8-8 alloy steel bolt has a tensile strength of 828N/mm2. = 635N/mm2

A4-70 would be no stronger than the A2-70.

Edited by Brian UK -