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Cali 1100i rotor needed.

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jog53 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 09:55
I was going to swop them over to do that test...but theres one seized Philips head bolt on the CalVin alternator cover thats on the verge of rounding. I thought Id leave it be at that point. My mechanics Ev is out on loan and not accessible atm. I appreciate all the good guidance youve sent my way.

Im still going to bring the old unit to an auto electrician to have it tested next week, just out of curiosity.

It would be so good if this heralded the end of the charging woes !

Will post results.

Thanks again.
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cugsy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cugsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 11:09
I work for a company that build our own PMGs - permanent magnetic generators. My obvious thought is to see if i can swap the magnets on the guzzi one.  I an at least put it on our test rig. John
Due to italian electrickery I am saying nowt. Still stuck with the bloody Honda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 11:16
As I said, I had a problem with a Saprisa rotor. In the end I made up my own device to try to remagnetise. Once I had collected enough 12v batteries  it did work to some extent. I think I ended up flashing it at 72 volts.  Certainly made the magnets stronger.
But the proper kit will always do better.
Brian.

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cugsy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cugsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 19:08
I removed the stator from the cali an hour ago. It came away very easily. There is some magnetism at the rotor but its not quantitative - just move the spanner nearer until clang. But the inner ring on the rotor is quite rusty and I'm not sure if this contact surface is whats responsible for the poor field/ac build up and then bugger all output.  
Due to italian electrickery I am saying nowt. Still stuck with the bloody Honda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 20:41
A steel object like a spanner should snap to it and be hard to pull away.

Rust is unlikely to affect it.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2019 at 17:33
Brian UK.

My mechanic did exactly as you outlined. The new stator and old rotor fired up strongly into life, over 14 volts if I remember correctly. Reg/Rec fried...

He said "that guy knows his stuff". 

I now have a spare rotor ( in the post,on the way, from DrDon) and stator, and thats not a bad thing!

Now looking for a Reg/Rec.

Many thanks, Brian.


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cugsy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cugsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 17:36
I checked a couple of earths and after ringing them out I came to the conclusion that they need cleaning and or repositioning. Could be part of my problem.  Emery paper here I come
Due to italian electrickery I am saying nowt. Still stuck with the bloody Honda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 20:18
The earth between the Rectifier and frame/battery negative is crucial. Might be worth running an extra one in.
Brian.

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cugsy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cugsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 21:34
thats the one..

Due to italian electrickery I am saying nowt. Still stuck with the bloody Honda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 21:03
Yep I'e had to do that - on the older Tonti frame bikes I had, the black neg lead from rectifier was attached to frame alright, but using the bolt had holds the right side battery rubber buffer, which of course cannot be wellied up tight else the rubber is crushed. Ergo, it's always basically loose. Soon as I saw this and realised the implications I was like


Instead I connected a new wire between rectifier neg and battery neg direct.

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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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