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stu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 17:53
No idea what those components do!

Heated Grips require engine running and I tested with engine off. So icon will only display with engine running.

Bike runs and all needles do boot sweep and fuel level read as does RPM. Haven't done speed as bike in the shed! Wall of death is out 'cus it's a square shed!

I wounder if these components are just for decoration Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 17:56
Still got the LCD Stu, but don't know if there was any corrosion on the ribbon cable - mainly because I didn't look 😖 Something for next winter I think
 
Re the old clocks dying - I suspect that you are right
 
Biggest issue IMO is that the ECU needs a start permissive from the dash. Tricky to overcome.
 
My cunning thoughts got to
a) Fit previously incarnation of a 5AM loaded with a Guzzi map that doesn't have the immobiliser
b) Fit a Microsquirt ECU as we have all the necessary sensors on the bike
I exceeded my level of competence at that point 😁
 
I
 
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stu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 05:04
I like option a)

I haven't fully tested these new to me clocks on a ride out so have no idea what the effect of this corrosion and now missing transistors or whatever they are has. So not sure what the fix would do as haven't found the fault. Will check for warming of heated grips but I'll say I have no idea at this time.



Fingers crossed you'll have a working spare LCD for future clock repair if needed.

Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c13pep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 11:26
Originally posted by stu stu wrote:

No worries, I keep my teeth in a cup. Embarrassed

I've toyed with printing a dial face myself. Ink may be an issue with the clocks out in all weathers. The silver dial separator can be used to hold down just an overlay of the speedo as all other dials are ok.

If you need an MPH dial template I can photo to scale my dial and email it you. PM if needed.

Smile




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you can`t have any fun in a straight line

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stu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 16:13
I'll have to look into scaling. Not sure how to take a photo and recreate at 1:1. Thought it would be easy Confused

Hope they're of use. I've run out of guzziriders image space Embarrassed to upload here.

I'd like to get a custom graphic done and stick it to a thin plastic lid off something, hence "I Say Ding Dong" for the graphic bit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 11:58
The Save to PDF laser copy works as 1:1.



The paper allows enough light through. Maybe lacquer it to give it protection. Isn't stuck down and not sure how heat warp may effect it.



Edited by stu - 15 Jul 2019 at 17:10
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c13pep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 20:35
Couldn`t quite hear the soundtrack at the beginning but I did think about copying the template onto photo paper for extra stiffness. Also trying to find out if I can reverse the colours to create a 1200 Sport white dial

CHRIS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 22:12
Colour revers is a bit of a pain as I wanted to keep a cut boarder and an indicators port hole.

Paper isn't thick enough so a backing may be required or possibly a black dial underneath with the white dial on top.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c13pep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 16:29
White template may work if simply glued on top of original fascia and then lacquered
Just as a recount are we any closer to a definitive answer on where the water is getting in or what is the best method for curing it other than cutting drain slots in the bottom of the case

CHRIS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 19:23
No need to glue as internal separator holds down the paper. Worth a go using original dial as backing to control lighting.

I'm of the opinion that water is getting in though the internal cracks in the inner lip of the gutter. The ABS plastic is just not up to the job in my opinion.

You may see small cracks from the out side gutter where the chrome sits on Breva clocks. I think later clocks were also lacquered.

Lacquer the internal pcb but it must be completely dry with no damp under components.

I'm putting my original clocks back together. Filling cracks with plasic weld. Then enamel paint, Airfix. I won't use a rubber seal, instead silicon grease. Just want to fill all cracks first.

Have the screws in the plastic when using plastic weld to preload and expand any cracking. Screws don't need to be tight on reassembly.
I like to beable to disassemble later so won't use any glue or sticky silicon to stick perspex.

Other than that. I may use an external lacqure masking the dial window. But what keeps water out also keeps it in!

I'd like to make a metal and glass case.

Ouch Having said all that. The electronics seem quite robust. Big smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c13pep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2019 at 19:04
Just tried to remove fascia on my clocks only to be met by a slight difference to Stu s video in that the rubber gasket around the perimeter of the glass looks to have been poured in as a liquid to a level above the screws. This would appear to make removal of the glass nigh on impossible without causing damage to the glass, ask me how I know   
It also does mean that conversion of later clocks from KMH to MPH would also be impossible to do, to meet current MoT standards, as `stick on the glass` overlays are not now allowed.
Anyone out there got a glass from a broken set of clocks   

CHRIS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2019 at 22:53
I'm not 100% sure if this new seal method is original and to combat leaks on earlier clocks or a User/Sent off to Service preventative measure. If all you wanted to do was change dials and there's no evidence of leak then the seal seems to be doing it's job.

I think I'd get the hobby drill out. I know this sounds bad...

Slice off the top of the perspex. It should get covered by the chrome finish when repairing. Other option is to slice the bottom. Perspex you can see through for blade location. Cut a new piece for the repair and use a glue. Plastic weld if you go the other route.

Not sure how far you've got though. And all this over the muppets at the MOT. And we still have to use litres to fill up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote melonman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 08:38
My 1200s clocks have that same black seal i reckon its a liquid that sets after been poured around the clocks.
Me and an engineer at work spent hours trying to remove it with no luck at all.
Stu went through the back of my clocks to read the code.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 09:07
I think this might be a later "improvement" to the clocks by Guzzi to stop the water getting in. I'm sure the earlier pictures I saw had nothing like that.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c13pep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 09:21
Originally posted by stu stu wrote:

I'm not 100% sure if this new seal method is original and to combat leaks on earlier clocks or a User/Sent off to Service preventative measure. If all you wanted to do was change dials and there's no evidence of leak then the seal seems to be doing it's job.

I think I'd get the hobby drill out. I know this sounds bad...

Slice off the top of the perspex. It should get covered by the chrome finish when repairing. Other option is to slice the bottom. Perspex you can see through for blade location. Cut a new piece for the repair and use a glue.


The seal must be injected in by a small syringe to a level above the retaining screws, it will certainly have been very watery judging by how its flowed into all the cavities, but it was a solution to a problem (at least they didn`t ignore it this time)
I came up with the same solution ie. Dremel the face of the Perspex off and then replace it with an offcut from a kitchen clock face or an old headlight!! using clear polycarbonate mastic as a glue. As you say all will be concealed under the bezel.
I just need to psych myself up now perhaps with a dram or two to steady the nerves    

CHRIS
you can`t have any fun in a straight line

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