Coburn & Hughes Black and Gold MK2's |
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Oldrat ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 May 2014 Location: Harrow Status: Offline Points: 1656 |
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Another vote for Hels from me
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1976 "Zagato" Gootsi cafe racer
BMW GSA |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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thanks for the recommendations for Hels, I'll check that out. Does anyone remember what sort of price? Stein Dinse are selling what looks like a complete LM II kit for about 150 euros, probably plus postage and now also taxes
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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thanks all for the advice, have just ordered a kit direct from Hels. Cheaper than Stein Dinse, and no aggro with import tax, VAT - real pain. hopefully will all fit perfectly
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Jerry atric ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Status: Online Points: 3211 |
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[QUOTE=LemansII] going back to Bernev's post (14 Feb 2021) 1999-2000 saw lead-free heads is a lead free conversion a must do for a 1981 LM II ? i think i've seen web articles saying this isn't a must do ?
Guzzis had lead free heads way back in the 70s or 60s due to the US market so no need to bother. ![]() |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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so, i received the brakes hoses from Hels. They look very good.
When the mechanic went to fit them, he said my bike already has braided
hoses, with a black plastic outer covering. I now have a set of surplus Hels hoses !! Anybody want them at the price i paid for them (£131) before i try to send them back ?
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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has anybody had any problems with the clutch on the LMII ? i'm not sure there is full movement of the clutch when i pull the clutch lever in. There is about 5mm free play at the handlebar lever pivot point, but the clutch lever won't pull back to touch the handle bar rubber. The lever stops about 10mm short of the handlebar rubber. Should the clutch lever pull back to touch the handlebar rubber ? does anyone know if this is normal, or does the clutch need some serious attention ? thanks, |
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Brian UK ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 16978 |
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Check the position of the lever on the back of the gearbox, sounds as if that might be fouling.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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thanks Brian, took a look. pretty dirty. so I've sprayed some WD40 and left it to see if that helps
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Mike H ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8494 |
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Needs a coating of looking at. Brian means you need to see if it's touching the back of the gearbox, or something else is in the way, to prevent full travel. Possibly, the adjuster screw is too far back, or maybe even has fallen out! ![]() |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Brian UK ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 16978 |
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Yes, I did say the position of the lever. Watch the end of that lever when the clutch hand lever is pulled in. It should not touch anything, and ideally when the clutch is pulled fully in it should be at a right angle to the cable.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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a
quick update on the le mans clutch...... After a further look, involving laying under the bike, i found that the clutch actuator arm was hitting the back of the gear box, so the
clutch lever didn't have full travel. Hence clutch dragging when the engine got hot.
Slackened the cable and undid the lock-nut on the actuator screw.
Wound the screw in about 3/4 of a turn, locked it and readjusted
the cable.
Have now got 20mm free play at the ball end of the clutch lever, 5mm on the cable at
the actuator end, which I think is about right, and full travel pulling the clutch lever back to
the handlebar. Goes into gear and into neutral much better now. Next ride will be the test, when the engine gets hot again. |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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thanks for all the advice
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Oldrat ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 May 2014 Location: Harrow Status: Offline Points: 1656 |
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Great news
Hope that the trial goes well |
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1976 "Zagato" Gootsi cafe racer
BMW GSA |
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LemansII ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2016 Location: Windsor Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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hopefully good news. went out for a ride, over an hour. Got home, bike went into neutral really easily and then back into first and neutral, and so on.
No clutch drag or clonks going into gear. So i think that's encouraging ![]() The only concern i have is that there is only about 3-4 mm of the adjuster screw protruding from the lock nut. Bit worried it might be worn ? do they wear down ????
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BondEquipe ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Dec 2014 Location: Barnacle Status: Offline Points: 1853 |
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Definitely something wrong with it - mine's never done that! |
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Stephen
Black & Gold LM2 + Other Bikes & Projects! |
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