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1100 sporti rebuild

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hughguzzi View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 May 2015 at 17:32
1999 1100 sporti
Engine out and mostly apart - Rear frames and swinger all stripped out now, front end next, to be blasted and powder coated (black I think) thinking of soda blasting casings but what finish after that ? dont know what will last/look best, some people say leave and keep sprayed up with wd ? - with the chain/pullies and clutch off Ive noticed about 1mm end float on camshaft and 2mm on crank !! cant see any shims and cant find out what the float should be or the torque of the crank end plate bolts? anyone know where to find this sort of info and new replacement bolts ? Whats the best supplier for most of the bits (bolts, seals, gaskets, clutch, alternator, battery, etc) 
ohh so many questions Confused

Hey at least I finished building the 2 bathrooms as promised before starting on the Guzzi Wink - ahh the compromises we have to make in life !

Cheers
Hugh

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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2015 at 18:07
Why is engine apart?
 
You've reminded me when I changed camshafts on my old 850 I was surprised how much end float there is on that, however rear bearing is blind meaning oil pressure will push it forward I think. Hence the so-called thrust plate at the front (removable for access).

"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 08:34
Re painting get the frame painted NOT powder coated as if it chips the water gets in and it ends in disaster paint you can see any chips and retouch them ....paint finish on engines is real difficult over the years I have found the only paint that stays on and can be retouched easily is Hammerite smooth BUT the casings have to be utterly clean
I find degreasing, then steam cleaning then I use Frosts Marine clean and Metal ready it gets the casings ready to accept paint. the Smoothright takes an age to dry tho' but hardens off real well it is by far the most durable and if you brush it on it melts into itself and leaves no brush marks BUT use good brushes or you will leave bristles all over the place
 
I have seen some awful rot on bike parts due to ingress behind the powder coating. my old V1000 gets looked at yearly and retouched on the frame there is only ever bits of surface rust where it has rubbed or chipped
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 11:11
Must say I don't have much faith in powder coating either, in my experience it can look perfect on top but that's just a surface 'veneer', in reality it's completely come off the metal underneath and can be peeled off in sheets. The steel underneath is rusty as hell cos the coating has also trapped water below it.

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Grahame View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grahame Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 12:16
The end float on the crank and camshaft is checked with the timing cogs torqued up, there are no shims on the crank, check through this write up for more info 

I'm afraid I can't help much with finish on the casings as i'm not sure what to do myself, probably paint but I'm looking in to it just now.
I can thoroughly recommend Gutsibits for new and used spares they are very helpful on the phone.
Motomecca, Teo lamers and Stein Dinse are useful as well
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hughguzzi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hughguzzi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 19:45
Brilliant ! all good advice - the original powder coat trapped moisture in and rusted up areas of the rear frame - hence its coming apart for total clean back and repaint, might go with the smoothrite black (straight to metal or is a primer best for steel as it is for ally) 
The engine has come apart because the clutch slipped due to the gearbox oil seal weeping, so while there checking everything, new timing chain etc. output shaft on gearbox has a damaged spline due to the U/J clamp being not tight enough - not sure wether to strip with new shaft or leave alone ?
pics soon 
cheers !

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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 20:00
smoothrite goes on no primer, you do have to get it spotless tho' the Frost's marine clean and metal teardy as the final clean I degrease, then clean with detergent and water then steam clean before using the frosts stuff
the usual thing that damages splines is no grease in the sleeves if they get dry it causes excess wear good hi temp grease is a must ......
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hughguzzi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hughguzzi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 21:22
Thats a great guzzi stripdown guide Grahame, thanks ! 
Ken-Guzzibear - regards repainting frame, do you need the frosts marine clean and the metal teardy (never heard of that one - do you mean metal ready/POR 15 metal prep ?) after shotblasting the frame to remove old paint and rust ? Do you guys warm air blast the smoothrite to help it smooth up after painting or let it 'self level' as that stuff sort of does ? 1 or 2 coats ? Ive used the rattle can smoothrite before for touching up frame on the BMW and it can get nice and profesionally smooth but takes forever to dry !  Also regarding the spline - one is actually part broken off ! but the rest look ok - but I know if one was damaged perhaps should suspect others are weakened too ?



Edited by hughguzzi - 17 May 2015 at 21:34
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Grahame View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grahame Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 21:27
I sounds like your bike did a similar thing to mine, when I bought it the bike had been laid up for several years. After changing a faulty sensor, all the fluids and a tune up the bike ran beautifully but the gearbox started leaking into the clutch bellhousing and caused clutch slip. It is now apart on the bench awaiting some TLC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2015 at 23:01
easy to do takes about 8 hrs -10 hrs crab the freme take out gear box replace seals and then do the engine one that is more difficult as you have to take the clutch ut make SURE the engine is TDC on right cyl and MARK the flywheel to cases there ought to be a mark BUT make it OBVIOUS I do at least 2 so the fly wheel goes back correctly maintaining the marks for the timing window .... well worth replacing the clutch pushrod seals at the same time, just done that this weekend had to take gearbox off as it had almost seized ....at sometime the older sleeve had been left in there it seized to the shaft , new cones in fitted all back together
 
 
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