guzziriders.org - moto guzzi forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Technical > Big Block Tonti
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Le Mans 1 850 - Engine/Gearbox/Bevel oil
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Le Mans 1 850 - Engine/Gearbox/Bevel oil

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
jonoo76 View Drop Down
Guzzino
Guzzino
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2019
Location: London, UK
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoo76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Le Mans 1 850 - Engine/Gearbox/Bevel oil
    Posted: 09 Nov 2019 at 20:05
Hi

Great to be a member of this forum.

I have been looking around for information on compatible Engine/Gearbox/Bevel oil for my Moto Guzzi Le Mans 1 but cannot find a definitive answer. Just opinions.

For example, would this be OK:

I live in the UK so we sometimes do get a little chilly here, what would the recommended oils be?
Is Gearbox/Engine oil the same?
I was told Engine & bevel oil would be the same?
5w40 or 10w40?
Syntetic/semi-synthetic OK?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Jeremy

Back to Top
johnno View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 19 Jul 2014
Location: loughborough uk
Status: Offline
Points: 3977
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2019 at 20:12
Lots of information but listen to lemans owners who put miles on their bikes
1100 sport corsa , Yam R1, guzzi 650tt rider
Back to Top
GuzziPaul View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2015
Location: Essex
Status: Offline
Points: 172
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GuzziPaul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2019 at 21:01
In my LM 1 I use

Halfords Classic 20/50 in the engine, changed every 1000 miles
75/80 in the gearbox and and bevel drive complet with a shot of molyslip into both changed evey year. I've done about 2500 miles this year.
For the bevel drive don't use the the oil level plug, the thread is delicate and the angle of the swinging arm can effect the volume. Instead measure the volume of oil needed and pour it in.
Back to Top
Brian UK View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: 13 May 2014
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 11864
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2019 at 22:11
Engine oil should be either 10W40 or 20W50. Though the owners manual says 10W50.

Gear oil is specific for gearboxes, and modern ones will be labelled GL5. Owners manual says straight 90 and same for the bevel drive. It's arguable that the modern oils don't require the addition of Molyslip.


In french unfortunately, but the numbers are still English. Big smile

Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
Back to Top
Mike H View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 21 May 2014
Location: East Anglia
Status: Offline
Points: 6938
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2019 at 23:08
To confuse the issue further, for a long time I used Silkolene 10W-40, "for 4-stroke engines"

(Before that, the Spada used to get Castrol "Grand Prix", because it was the closest, I was assured, to "SINT 2000" which is what the book said.)

Then one very hot August bank holiday (we're back to the LM now) going down to the V-twin rally the oil light got very friendly and winking at me a lot whenever I had to stop. (Traffic lights, traffic jams, whatever.) So since then I used 20W-50 like Brian says.

Transmission always used to be SAE 90. Then on the forum a few years ago someone recommended SAE 85W-140, plus a teaspoon of molyslip, in both g/box and FD, tried it, never looked back, g/box changed gear more easily and smoothly and final drive seemed to run cooler (normally too hot to touch after a good run).

So ...


"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
Back to Top
jonoo76 View Drop Down
Guzzino
Guzzino
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2019
Location: London, UK
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoo76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 00:41
Thanks for all the info...

What is the difference between semi-synthetic and full-synthetic, is one better than the other?
Is full-synthetic a no-no?
Back to Top
1down5up View Drop Down
Falcone
Falcone
Avatar

Joined: 29 May 2016
Location: Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 40
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1down5up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 05:44
One thing to be aware of with GL5 gear oils is that they have the potential to attack/corrode yellow metals such as brass and bronze. Some of the earlier guzzis (at least round case, but possibly into some of the square case) had a bronze 3 piece bearing (on the front end of the output shaft). 

Could be a hullabaloo about nothing though, I'm no chemical engineer 

I use penrite 80w-90 GL5 which they say is formulated to be yellow metal compatible which if nothing else makes me feel better..... Plus it's available everywhere in Oz and reasonably priced. 



Back to Top
Brian UK View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: 13 May 2014
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 11864
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 08:01
Synthetic oil is generally thinner in viscosity. Putting it into an older engine may well cause leaks past oil seals.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
Back to Top
Mike H View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 21 May 2014
Location: East Anglia
Status: Offline
Points: 6938
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 14:34
Synthetic oil has longer molecules, so basically it lasts longer to next oil change, this is how you get 10,000 miles service intervals for cars (in conjunction with, fancy iridium tip or whatever long life spark plugs). With use, the molecules get chopped up into shorter bits, this is why you have to replace the oil at some point. The longer the molecules, the longer it can stay in, because it takes longer to reduce it to the length where it needs changing. 

It can be argued that it's "too good" as a lube, for example where you want to run in an engine and knock off the rough spots, so mineral or a semi would be better for that.  

  
"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
Back to Top
Mike H View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 21 May 2014
Location: East Anglia
Status: Offline
Points: 6938
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 14:39
NB: I used to use Silkolene 20-40 for 4-stroke engines, can't remember if it was a semi, if it was, I didn't have any leaks. However this is what's said about full synth. 

It may depend on the seals, I don't get any seal leaks from the Ural and that uses full synthetic. 

Big smile
"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
Back to Top
jonoo76 View Drop Down
Guzzino
Guzzino
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2019
Location: London, UK
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoo76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 21:08
This has been quite enlightening, I used to think of oil just as oil but it seems its a bit more complex than that. Thank you all for your input!

Cheers

J
Back to Top
sardineone View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Indiana, USA
Status: Offline
Points: 172
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sardineone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 22:44
I have 57,000 miles on my Lemans 1000.  I've used Mobil 1 15w50 in it since break-in around 4k miles with no troubles.  On the transmission I switched to synthetic and immediately noticed less rolling resistance and better shifting.  With that said I noticed metallic residue every transmission oil change.  Then I came across the info from earlier in this thread "One thing to be aware of with GL5 gear oils is that they have the potential to attack/corrode yellow metals such as brass and bronze".  Since then I've used 75w90 synthetic that states will not attack these bearing materials.  In the US Royal Purple brand states this on the bottles.  I use the same in my rear end.
George

One owner 86' Lemans 1000 (member of the family) / BMW R1200ST (current work horse)

You are what you have ridden!
Back to Top
BondEquipe View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 10 Dec 2014
Location: Barnacle
Status: Offline
Points: 1378
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BondEquipe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2019 at 23:13
Originally posted by sardineone sardineone wrote:

  I use the same in my rear end.

Big smileWinkSmileBig smile


I know, childish . . .
Stephen
Black & Gold LM2
+ Other Bikes & Projects!
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.02
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.078 seconds.