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Single TB 750 AND V7Mk2 e.f.i. Accessory

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V7Chris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote V7Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2018 at 20:32
Definitely not perception Brian, disconnecting the lambdas transformed the ride.
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2018 at 21:43
So there must be differences from one bike to another. Or some don't notice which I find hard to believe.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefrs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2018 at 22:56
Don't just disconnect the Lambda, put a resistor in its place.  I don't know the ohm value, it came as a plug from Dynojet.

The basic Dynojet Power Commander set up eliminates the Lambda narrow-band O2 sensors and substitutes a resistor "dongle" in the connector to the ECU, as mentioned by Motopete before.

The Autotune AT-200 introduces Bosch wide-band O2 sensors that operate in real-time. It piggybacks onto the Power Commander, and it also datalogs the trim.

Comparing notes with other Power Commanders - yes, every bike is different

Both are expensive options. I do not intend to fit these to the V7.ii
1) modifying the bike sends the insurance premium way up.
2) imo it has enough power in stock form, if I wanted a faster bike I'd get a bigger one.
3) I've scratched that itch.
4) it's an expensive hobby. I can spanner a bike but prefer riding it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefrs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2018 at 11:01
Having re-read the entire thread - I think the 'dongle' provided by Dynojet is probably a little resistor divider network providing that +0.85V described earlier by Motopete.

And having said my V7.ii runs fine, of course it has now decided it likes to dot out when I lift the throttle until it is warmed up, and stall easily, which is embarrassing leaving the car park.
Once it has warmed up, no problem although slow running (heavy traffic) is less than smooth.

What has changed?
Plugs cleaned and reset from 0.90 to 0.70mm
Valve clearance checked and reset to 0.15 and 0.20mm from a little wider (0.16?) on the inlet and about 0.28mm on the exhaust.
Throttle cables adjusted, they were very sloppy ~5mm play.

What have I done since?
Resetting plugs to 0.80-0.85 has made no difference (logic being that the CPR8ES-9 plug is made by NGK preset to 0.90mm, I think they were fitted like that)

Where are the Lambda connector boxes?


Edited by jefrs - 23 Aug 2018 at 11:14
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2018 at 14:49
The fat Duc is another "dongle" working on a resistive network which modifies the output of the lambda sensor to make the ECU think it's running lean and thus richens up the mixture.
A shottky diode in series with the lambda sensor output can also work. They cost pence.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldlegs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2018 at 22:18
If I remember right the lambda connectors are behind the side cover. Steve
Current: Beta Motard M4. Beta Motard tourer. Beta Super Motard. Beta Alp. Moto Guzzi V7 11 Stone.
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V7Chris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote V7Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2018 at 07:54
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

A shottky diode in series with the lambda sensor output can also work. They cost pence.
All very well Brian, simple muckaniks like me need to have such things explained in simple terms, e.g.where do I hit it, how hard, do I move my thumb out of the way first, what colour is it etc. With the lambdas sensors, I just left the multiplugs disconnected behind the side panels , protected the exposed end of the plugs and it seems to work fine. Should I be fitting one of these fandangos you mention? If so, where do I get one, what do I connect it to (I can weld after a fashion!), Do I need one for each side, and finally, can you pop round next Tuesday at about 10:30 and put in for me. ThanksBig smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2018 at 09:40
LOL


"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2018 at 10:05
Generally when you hit things, especially with the large hammer, it does pay to get one's finger out of the way. Same applies to axes as some will know.

If you had just one lambda sensor then I can send you one made up to fit. I only have one as I made it up to try on the Norge, but it brought up the service light. I gather the V7 range is a little more forgiving.


Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefrs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 14:46
Having written the V7.ii idled well it, of course, decided to die when lifting the throttle when cold and stuttering in slow corners.
So I changed the plugs. The old ones looked good and have only done 5000 miles at most but the new plugs got rid of most of the stuttering. It still needs warming up but doesn't dot out so readily.
New CPR8EB-9 fitted straight out of the box at 0.90mm, stock MG rubber plug caps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deltic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 17:35
moto guzzi rubber caps are a weak point
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TimmyTheHog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 23:47
Originally posted by deltic deltic wrote:

moto guzzi rubber caps are a weak point

my original cap died on me and caused arcing

I upgraded to XD05F with CPR8EA-9

A lot more solid connection and none to minor wiggles within the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefrs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 17:08
Originally posted by TimmyTheHog TimmyTheHog wrote:

Originally posted by deltic deltic wrote:

moto guzzi rubber caps are a weak point

my original cap died on me and caused arcing

I upgraded to XD05F with CPR8EA-9

A lot more solid connection and none to minor wiggles within the head.


The red ones are faster than the black ones? Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimmyTheHog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 17:18
Originally posted by jefrs jefrs wrote:

Originally posted by TimmyTheHog TimmyTheHog wrote:

Originally posted by deltic deltic wrote:

moto guzzi rubber caps are a weak point

my original cap died on me and caused arcing

I upgraded to XD05F with CPR8EA-9

A lot more solid connection and none to minor wiggles within the head.


The red ones are faster than the black ones? Big smile

Definitely!...in my head anyway :P

at least it looks faster :P My bike is red too....so Beer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefrs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 01:42
Bit odd.

I reconnected the Lambdas and cleared the tables again. This worked well, perhaps it had learnt bad habits.

Then I drained the oil out of the air filter box and it worked even better. (I did not put the oil in, recent dealer service).


My bike is an impetuous red but the plug caps are rubbery, and hidden from view Wink
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