V50 first ride and an electrical query |
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George
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Location: Prestwich Status: Offline Points: 113 |
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Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 18:08 |
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Hello - I've had the first ride on the V50 mark 2 and it's quite a lot different from either my LE Velo or Honda CD175. I ran the bike for about 2 miles yesterday and when I returned home set about synchronising the carbs. After installing the vacuum gauges I tried to start the bike but it then appeared that there was insufficient power in the battery to turn the engine over. The solenoid could be heard trying to kick in, the console lights were all noted to be dim. The main beam headlight bulb would not light but the winkers functioned OK. The battery showed around 12 volts at the time (I think). All fuses were OK and not any smell of burnt wiring. I have had the battery checked today and it was considered to be in good condition after a boost charge (around 13 Volts and 399 cranking amps). I have used a good quality clip on ammeter and with the ignition on there is no indication of a heavy draw
(meter reading only 0.4 of an amp supposedly from the instrument warning light). The bike does currently does fire /run up OK (although there is a misfire on the left hand cylinder to sort out). After reading previous posts on the forum I am about to start to check out various wiring connections and would welcome any suggestions to help explain my recent experience. Regards to All - George |
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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First thing to check is that the battery connections are clean and tight. If the lights went dim the battery was low. But when starting, turn the lights off anyway.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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A 2 mile run would not be enough to recharge the battery following its initial start of the bike. Easiest to check is charge rate as my Monza doesn`t start to charge until 2000rpm,using a multimeter across the battery, if this checks out ok then as Brian says there must be a poor connection somewhere although if it were on the battery then I would expect this to result in a slow starter motor. Easiest to start at the alternator and work your way thro` to the rectifier and regulator. All 3 of my V50s have suffered with the problem of the original fuse box and the crap bullet fuses not making proper contact because of a build up of crud, but then again Guzzi electric are legendary for being poor
CHRIS |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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BondEquipe
Senior Member Joined: 10 Dec 2014 Location: Summerzet Status: Offline Points: 1898 |
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Blimey; you must be the first bloke in 40 years to get off any other bike and onto a V50 and think it's quick!!
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Stephen
Black & Gold LM2 + Other Bikes & Projects! |
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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Blimey; you must be the first bloke in 40 years to get off any other bike and onto a V50 and think it's quick!! [/QUOTE] You've not ridden an LE then CHRIS |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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George
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Location: Prestwich Status: Offline Points: 113 |
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Gents - thanks for the comments so far. Tomorrow I'll give the battery connections, earth etc a good coat of looking at and then take a look into the alternator charge rate. Is there anything specific to check out on the rectifier or regulator (I've not found them yet)?
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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Usually behind side panels one on either side of tool box
CHRIS |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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Beekeeper
Falcone Joined: 27 Dec 2016 Location: Peak District Status: Offline Points: 63 |
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I don't know about other V50s but on our Monza the rectifier is just behind the headstock (remove the tank to check, wires exit to RHS.) and the regulator is situated behind the RHS side panel. You sound like you're reasonably competent, but I'll post a link to the excellent Electrex trouble shooting guide anyway. I'm aware there will be minor differences as it refers to a single regulator rectifier unit but on the whole it's good advice! You asked about weak points on V50s.....handlebar switches!!
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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I expect so! |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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I would hope so.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Dennis menace
Senior Member Joined: 04 Jul 2016 Location: Farnsfield Status: Offline Points: 221 |
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Mentioned on here before, it is worth running a dedicated, heavier gauge wire from the battery to the starter solenoid as the original set up is not great. I fitted a combined rectifier and regulator from Electrex World to replace the original parts designed by Frankenstein!
If your battery is good, it should turn over the engine for a good while. Might be worth trying another battery or jump leads to see if your battery is really that good. I bought a Motobatt AGM battery for a reasonable price and they work well. Dennis |
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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The thing is whoever designed the original regulators and rectifiers couldn`t have been that bad as lots of them are still operating well, in my case some 39 years later. CHRIS |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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George
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Location: Prestwich Status: Offline Points: 113 |
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Hello and thanks again to all the comments / suggestions. I've checked the battery connection from neg to earth and the frame earth was not good so this has been sorted. The bike seems to be starting and the electrics working all OK.
I'm going to investigate the misfire tomorrow (the right hand cylinder and exhaust system run much hotter than the left after a relatively short run time). I have taken the carbs apart (having read Brian's earlier post) and all appears OK so I have a new coil to fit to the left hand side and I'll see if anything changes. Thanks again to all the posts and later tonight I must delve into the Electrex trouble shoot guide. I'll post any progress that I make. p.s. had a run with the LE Velo club today - a lot of full throttle for much of the 74 miles and a heady speed of 45 noted (down hill slightly and we think the LE speedos do read a tad high). Best Regards - George |
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George
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Location: Prestwich Status: Offline Points: 113 |
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Just a quick update on the activity today. With the new left hand coil fitted the bike was easily started up running good on both pots. The revs at this time were around 1400 and I quickly checked the pipes / silencers and noted they were both increasing at around at the same rate. However after approx. 2 minutes of running the bike went onto to running again on only the right hand cylinder. I checked the plugs - both quite sooty. I swapped the plugs around and when it came to restart the battery couldn't crank the bike! Lights checked and seen to be dim, the horn wouldn't blow so CONCLESION 1 - the battery must be knackered even though it was pronounced in good health only the day before. A small 12 volt battery (9.1Ah (20 HR)/190 CCA) was hooked up to the system to test the lights, horn etc - all OK but I didn't attempt to start the bike on this battery. Instead I hooked up my Morris Minor battery and eventually I had the bike running to a state where I could adjust and attempt to tune the carbs. I found the carbs quite fiddly to set up (although I must admit playing with twin carbs is not my forte).I used vacuum gauges to achieve fairly good synchronisation and I'll have to give the bike a decent run but throughout this latest episode I noted that at all times the left hand cylinder / exhaust system was definitely lower that that of the right. I have two questions that somebody may be able to comment on 1) would different mixture strengths account for the temperature differences of the cylinders and 2)Although I am going to buy a new battery, would the battery with 190 CCA be able to cope in an emergency start situation. I was considering carrying this with me during the first runs until I get to know the bike is reliable / sorted. Best Regards - George
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Take care - be aware
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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Firstly all my V50s have suffered with sooty plugs unless they are given a good blast out on a decent run
The small battery should start the bike in an emergency but don`t expect it to keep churning the starter motor over Mixture difference usually gives hot running on weak mixture and cooler running when too rich Have you synchronised the throttle cables as part of the carb balancing ie. both slides opening at the same time Have you done a compression test to ensure both cylinders are ok CHRIS Edited by c13pep - 20 Sep 2019 at 21:24 |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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