V35II - Hydraulic Lock...

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   Dear All,
Filled with enthusiasm AND it actually wasn't raining I ventured out to the garage for the start of season session.... Enthusiasm was short lived.. Bl**dy Venom wouldn't start.. Never mind, I have the V35II...

Fuel on, choke levers up, turn key, "click".. Ah well, usual fuse problem - no it wasn't. 
Suspect battery?, I have the one that came with the V50III Project.. Changed battery. Loud click / clunk, not heard that before. Thought I'd put it in gear & turn the wheel in case something had jammed. Wheel wouldn't move - strange..
Then I spotted fuel p*****g out under the bike. The wondrous VHBZ, I am not a fan, offside was leaking enthusiastically.
Turned fuel off, leak continued a bit.. Old car floor mat under the bike was completely soaked, probably just as well it didn't fire up..
At this stage I took the plugs out and tried to turn the back wheel. Very hard, odd, then it moved a bit and sloshing noise followed by fuel flying out of the plug hole. Repeated this a bit. I squirted some oil down the RH bore & carried on until I got most of it out. Now left to dry out with both plugs still removed.

Question - is it possible fuel would get into the sump? 
Quesion 2 - If I drop the oil from the sump will this also empty the filter chamber?
Question 3 - I have not changed oil since ownership - PO had just put new oil everywhere.. I vaguely remember him mentioning synthetic but I have no idea what type..
Finally - I have some fresh Hein Gericke 20/50 "designed for V-twins" (I had it for the Buell and never used it). Would such "tractor oil" ( it was designed for HD) be ok in the V35II ?

Thanks as always for your thoughts..

Cheers,
Adrian
Bristol UK

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AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: V35II - Hydraulic Lock... Posted: 13 Mar 2026 at 17:39
	Dear All, Filled with enthusiasm AND it actually wasn't raining I ventured out to the garage for the start of season session.... Enthusiasm was short lived.. Bldy Venom wouldn't start.. Never mind, I have the V35II... Fuel on, choke levers up, turn key, "click".. Ah well, usual fuse problem - no it wasn't. Suspect battery?, I have the one that came with the V50III Project.. Changed battery. Loud click / clunk, not heard that before. Thought I'd put it in gear & turn the wheel in case something had jammed. Wheel wouldn't move - strange.. Then I spotted fuel p***g out under the bike. The wondrous VHBZ, I am not a fan, offside was leaking enthusiastically. Turned fuel off, leak continued a bit.. Old car floor mat under the bike was completely soaked, probably just as well it didn't fire up.. At this stage I took the plugs out and tried to turn the back wheel. Very hard, odd, then it moved a bit and sloshing noise followed by fuel flying out of the plug hole. Repeated this a bit. I squirted some oil down the RH bore & carried on until I got most of it out. Now left to dry out with both plugs still removed. Question - is it possible fuel would get into the sump? Quesion 2 - If I drop the oil from the sump will this also empty the filter chamber? Question 3 - I have not changed oil since ownership - PO had just put new oil everywhere.. I vaguely remember him mentioning synthetic but I have no idea what type.. Finally - I have some fresh Hein Gericke 20/50 "designed for V-twins" (I had it for the Buell and never used it). Would such "tractor oil" ( it was designed for HD) be ok in the V35II ? Thanks as always for your thoughts.. Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK

Moto Gazza Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Falcone Joined: 23 Nov 2025 Location: Norwich Status: Offline Points: 70	Post Options Post Reply Quote Moto Gazza Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Mar 2026 at 19:25
	You will definitely have fuel in the sump and therefor in the oil. You will need a complete oil change and new filters. Once the oil is dropped and possibly the sump (Don't know this model though.) leave it for a few hours to breathe and get rid of fuel vapours. It might even be a good idea to pop the rockerbox covers off whilst breathing and mop any contaminated oil out of there too. Then button it back together and fill with fresh oil. No idea what oil they recommend for that model. You were lucky it didn't detonate in the crankcase or you wouldn't be posting this..
	1977 850-T 1977 Triumph TR7RV 2000 Ducati M900Sie 2020 Zero SR/F

Brian UK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 18226	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian UK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Mar 2026 at 22:02
	As you didn't run the engine, it's unlikely the petrol could get into the filter. Drop the oil/petrol mix out and refill. Then make sure the float in the carb is working properly. Also make sure the fuel is turned off whenever you leave the bike. According to the workshop manual, the oil should be 10W50, bear in mind, synthetic oils were not around when it was built. By the way, the V50III should have PHB 28 carbs.
	Brian. Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.

AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 14:32
	Thanks both, comments duly noted! Brian: I always turn the fuel taps of, it's amazing just how quickly the fuel went everywhere... Also, I was surprised - I had replaced both float needles & jets when I rebuilt the carbs 18 months ago. They are correct, this is the V35II - 26mm VHBZs, My V50III project has the PHB 28s... The V50III project came to me with a load of spares, all purchased from Gutsibits. This included 4 ltrs of Motul i-Sint 20/50 so maybe this viscosity is acceptable... I have certainly put some of it in the V50III to replace the old stuff that was in there. I do have some 10/50 but it's probably designed for cars (Total Quartz Racing 10w-50 Engine Oil). Gutsibits seem to stock one 15w-50 and two types of 20w-50 so I guess it won't do any harm... Busy under instruction from Management making a wildlife pond today but as soon as I can I'll drop the engine oil and see what it looks like.. Then I'll take that damn carb off, again.... Thanks again... Adrian Bristol UK

ranton_rambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 13 Feb 2015 Location: Stafford Status: Offline Points: 1232	Post Options Post Reply Quote ranton_rambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 17:15
	On the oil, I'd say the -50 part is the important bit. That's the viscosity rating at working temperature. You can use car-type oil in these Guzzis as it's a dry clutch. Motorcycle oils normally have friction modifiers for the wet clutches.

AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Mar 2026 at 08:36
	Thanks, that gives me some options.. I hadn't thought of the dry clutch affecting oil types - good point.. Am hunting for a suitable clean container, you never know the existing stuff just might be ok! Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK

Motty Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 03 Jun 2015 Location: South England Status: Offline Points: 306	Post Options Post Reply Quote Motty Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Mar 2026 at 18:51
	Yikes, that doesn't sound great I've used a Shell Advance Ultra 4 synthetic 10-40 for the last couple of oil changes on my 350, but if the petrol had reached the sump, I would probably (briefly) use something cheaper to help flush any petrol out Good luck Richard
	It’s more fun to try to ride a slow bike fast .....

Mike H Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 9053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mike H Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Mar 2026 at 20:07
	You are lucky the crank is not a pressed up type, but solid, or it could have been twisted. Also possible is a bent con rod. When you were turning it with the rear wheel, could you make complete revolutions? If not, because it stops or goes tight, you might still have a serious problem. I can only guess one or other of the fuel taps is not shutting off properly, so still leaking fuel through. But as said float chamber valves should have stopped it also. Never had this happen to me but I have had to replace taps and hoses and hose connectors on old bikes, because of them not sealing. Due to age.
	"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."

AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 08:15
	Thanks Richard, good to know you are using a synthetic with no issues... Mike: It was a few days ago now so memory a bit hazy (employed on garden duties!!). I did not force anything at the time but I was only able to "rock" it back and forth a little to start with. Removing the plugs and doing this was followed by jets of fuel across the garage! It did stop / go tight but as I say I did not force the issue. If serious damage has occurred it will probably get broken for spares for the V50III project.. I did get as far as dropping the float bowl off and trying the float needle. It seemed to work so I put it back together & turned the tap on.. A small jet of fuel spurted out of the little overflow hole so I turned it off again. Taps are fine, it's just the carb. I hate the VHBZs, rubbish design really, the later PHBs were better in my opinion.. I wish someone had worked out which Mikunis would work on these !! So, the carb is now off the bike ready for a strip down. There didn't seem to be much point changing the oil yet, not until I've stopped the fuel issue. At the moment it's like having a fuel pipe straight into the inlet...... Thanks again for you input, much appreciated... Adrian Bristol UK

c13pep Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2212	Post Options Post Reply Quote c13pep Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 10:38
	Unfortunately with the amount of fuel described then it’s certain that the bores and rings will have had their residual oil washed away so, ideally, will need manually reoiling. I would think that as a minimum, removal of the cylinder head would be the safest option so that the bore can be coated in oil which in turn will lubricate the rings, only then will it be safe to rotate the engine. The above is based on my previous similar experience with a Monza which didn’t end well 😭 Good luck 😁😁 CHRIS
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Dave P. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Northants Status: Offline Points: 5692	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave P. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 13:33
	Sorry you've had the troubles you describe but I must say in defence of VHB carb's that they have served me well on one Laverda (GTL) and four Guzzis.The combined total milage of said bikes is in the region of 250,000+ miles.As mentioned in Guzziology you can improve worn slides by flatting them down on a surface plate with wet and dry paper.You can't do that with a round slide.They are simple,easy to tune so not such a bad design at all. Just my four penneth. Good luck with your endeavours.
	TO LIVE OUTSIDE THE LAW YOU MUST BE HONEST. 1971 V7 Special. 1972 850GT. 1970 T120 Bonnie. 2009 500 Bullet.

AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 13:55
	Thanks Dave, Perhaps they're not that bad then! My Laverda (750SF1) had PHF's, they were excellent... I guess I'll have to pursue these . The garbage fuel probably doesn't help (I use E5 which is marginally better than E10). The Mikuni on my Velo MSS was stuck this morning but a swift tap with a spanner sorted that one, unfortunately the Dellorto is not proving as cooperative ! Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK

AdrianW Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 1208	Post Options Post Reply Quote AdrianW Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 14:03
	Thanks Chris, I'm not sure I want to bother with removing the head, sensible as that would be. I have syringed a bit of Redex down there but your point about lubing manually is a good one. Have just found some "Light" fork oil (5W) which I bought cheap years ago and never used. So, with a small funnel with short length of fuel hose attached I'm going to put a load of that in there and leave things a while. I guess I need to fill the valve pockets before it will get to the edges of the piston. Apart from the mess / smoke etc when I attempt to get it out again it should be less effort, I really don't have time at present to start dismantling the bike. (I also remember how long it took 2 of us to get the exhaust of the V50III project......) Dare I ask what happened to the Monza ??? Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK

Dukedesmo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2015 Location: Leics Status: Offline Points: 926	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dukedesmo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 14:41
	I would only be removing the heads as a last resort. You can get oil down the plug'oles, let it soak. Use 2-stroke oil if you've got some as it will burn off. I inherited a lawnmower from my Dad on which the petrol had gone off, it looked almost like water! and it had no compression, I assumed the rings were stuck so I filled the cylinder with whatever oil I had and let soak for a week or so. Next time I tried it, it ran OK but I used some 2-stroke pre-mix fuel for a while to help lubricate everything, was a bit smokey but fine now. I don't know if the V35 has a removable sump like my LM2? but if it does you can see if the barrels are scored from below - a lot easier than removing heads.
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paulbricey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Dec 2019 Location: Stockport UK Status: Offline Points: 825	Post Options Post Reply Quote paulbricey Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2026 at 16:37
	You can't view the bores (or main bearings etc) if you remove the sump....just squirt in some oil & run it....and change the float valves !
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