RAM Clutch

Amboman wrote: The pushrod seals are important too. The first type was just a close fitting plastic tube and really didn't work well. The "upgrade" was a pair of cone-shaped rubber seals - I've had those leak as well. I use a stack of six "special sized" o-rings. I do polish the pushrod before installation. There is more than needs to be done on the rear of the engine to prevent leaks - replace the breather pipe and main bearing flange gaskets (I use a light coating of Permatex 300 with those), replace the crush washers on the oil return line (I use Hondabond 4 in addition to make sure it doesn't leak) and seal the two bottom bolts of the rear main bearing flange (Hondabond 4 again). While the main bearing is out, polish the surface of the crank the seal runs on with a green Scotchbrite pad. The brown Viton seals have a metal shell, part of which isn't covered in rubber. I apply Permatex 300 to the outside of the seal just to be sure it can't leak.

ranton_rambler wrote: The standard clutch shouldn’t slip, so there’s something wrong with yours.

Absolutely right in my opinion. Several years ago I had a badly slipping clutch on the 850GT. That proved to be due to one of the friction plate centres becoming detached from the rest of the plate. I fitted two new friction plates and all has been well ever since. I am currently working on the V7 Special because it has sprung an enormous engine oil leak which I believed was from the rear crankshaft seal. Having stripped the bike sufficiently to reach the said seal I'm not so sure. The clutch was not slipping nor was it oily, but the friction material is about 0.5mm under spec' so a new deep spline clutch is going in. This job is taking longer than it should because family commitments and a bad back keep interfering with workshop time.

Yes, sounds like the centre has come away from the outer.